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Posts Tagged ‘Interview

[译稿] 山本耀司:人们已经开始在浪费时尚

时下正值本届纽约时装周人声鼎沸之际,即使用五花八门来形容本届活动,也并没有什么不恰当的。但用包容的态度看,未来,或许正隐藏于其中。然而这并不是一篇关于未来的充满了美好祝福或者愤怒指责为主要内容的访谈。如果用“退守”来形容山本耀司目前的状态显然是幸灾乐祸者嘲弄般的措辞。09年末的破产经历不仅没有使这个快70岁的老头放弃职业生涯,相反却再次激活了其体内日本式的顽固禀性。事实上篇中所谈及的是关于时尚与生活、关于欲望与现实间关系的体悟,是山本耀司式的独自生活和一个人的时尚。至于人们是否在浪费时尚,我们衷心期望老先生在点燃第二根烟之前放弃这个“过时”的念头。

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In cube we trust

一年多之前,三位德国学生弄来这么一只黑色闪亮的盒子,把它放在这几位在设计界中颇有建树的人物面前以此展开了一系列关于设计的可行性与延展性话题的探讨。也许这是调皮学生戏弄学究们的小小恶作剧,但“严肃”的老师们依然耐心地像柏拉图一样就这只抽象的几何体展开了尽可能丰富的联想。尽管所说内容也确实抽象且难以被非专业人群理解,然而我们还是可以从中得到一些有意义的启发,比如形式与功能主义之间关系在人类设计发展过程中所具有的互动意义,从而引发观众进而对设计与制造、销售、消费关系等世界现象的讨论。

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镜头比语言更真实 —— "寂寞"的拍照人(下)

当我们专注于一件事情的时候,能量由专注灌入作品,成为我们的一部分,我在苏叉和苏查的作品中都感受到这种能量,它吸引你的目光,告诉你一个故事,引发你的记忆和情感共鸣,这幅作品也许会被你遗忘,这种感觉将在你的记忆的一角悄悄留存。这就足够了,不是吗。

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Jason Wu Interview by NET-A-PORTER

在公众媒体笔下,两圈人一直是他们的话题焦点。一圈是那些早已作古或即将西归的先辈、长者;一圈是毛孔中挥发着荷尔蒙气雾的犊子们。Michelle Obama 穿上 Jason Wu 的作品显然是经过“设计”的行为,统领者们不会允许怀旧成为公众情感餐桌上的正餐,所以适时端上味道清爽的甜点亦是为了我们不至于围着餐巾沉沉睡去。而 Jason Wu 带有怀旧细节的设计风格,正好迎合了承前启后,继往开来的国家发展思路。当然,我们不否认这位“幸运儿”此前所做的所有努力。可我们想预见的是,这些早早就站在长者圈中的人儿们将会如何在各种“教化”中一路向前。此外,亦是无人可知的,他们内心的“魔鬼”是否早已脱胎成型。

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镜头比语言更真实——“寂寞”的拍照人(上)

一直认为,一张照片是否是好照片,不仅在于它是否“决定性瞬间”,而更关乎它是否真诚地阐述你心底的声音——而是否真诚,与所有器材无关、与是否科班出身无关、与是否为人所熟知无关。我谨代表自己不作伪的直觉,发掘身边一些把相机当眼睛的人,两人或多人一组,同样的问题,不同的回答。虽是在问他们,你也可以自己给自己一份答案。

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