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首页 » 人文地理 影音万象 » Bill Cunningham -永远在路上

Bill Cunningham -永远在路上

二月 8, 2011

想必对于这位80多岁的老头而言,那些温情的荣誉勋章、油头粉面的时尚打手,与自己数十载漫不经心的影像记录相比,都有如鞋面上的浮尘飘忽不定,无需弯腰致意,跺跺脚便去亦。作为街拍的教科书级人物,Bill Cunningham 的名字在网络上的传播率远没有时下比如Sartorialist’s Scott Schumann这样的街拍名博来的广泛,但毋庸置疑的是,Bill Cunningham 在自己的摄影生涯中默默记录了50年的纽约时尚演变历程无人能及。想想看,这是一件多么具有非凡意义的事情。

Bill-Cunningham

Bill Cunningham 从1966年开始在纽约街头拍摄时尚风景,1978年在《纽约时报》上正式开辟名为《On the Street》的专栏。说起来 Bill Cunningham 的摄影风格绝没有他拍摄的那些对象们光鲜华丽,他本人也一直认为自己是一个容易害羞,不够积极的人;说白了,自己就是喜欢看穿漂亮衣服的女人,并把她们拍摄记录下来。所以时间长了,自然懂得欣赏与判断,再加上其舍己为人的奉献精神,更是为纽约时尚圈发掘了许多著名的设计师,可以说他是一位完完全全的纽约时尚圈内的“活雷锋”。

在今年3月份,一部由《The New York Times》牵头策划,专门叙述自家老员工 Bill Cunningham 矜矜业业的记录影片即将上映。在片中,我们将会看到这位街拍战士平凡到让那些手持相机的投机主义者们无地自容的影像记录。(这让我想到许多年前的那部——《"American Masters" Annie Leibovitz: Life Through a Lens》纪录片,也许我应该把它当做一部励志片重新对待,而 Annie Leibovitz 后期尴尬的个人境况,或许可以再尝试拍一部续集。)

Bill-Cunningham-New-York

一身蓝色环卫工制服,一只旧式胶片相机,一辆老自行车,日复一日穿梭于第五大道上,或徘徊于57街路口周围,平凡的好像咱们国内那些站立在路口义务执勤的老头儿一样,不同的是,想要吸引他的注意无需违反交通规则,无论你属于哪类阶层,只要穿着打扮有情节有意境,Bill Cunningham 就会在你不经意间将你摄入镜头,同时你很可能还一无所知,而隔天却登上了他专栏的头条版面,甚至成为接下来的流行趋势蔓延开来。几乎所有人都希望被 Bill Cunningham 以这种方式捕捉到,对于他们而言,这代表了一种高规格的褒奖与肯定,当然也有善意的玩笑。

坦率的说,Bill Cunningham 虽然从事的职业每天都在反映着时尚的踪迹,但在我看来他本人却是一位实实在在的“反时尚主义者”。关于时尚,Bill Cunningham 始终保持着良好的清醒状态,不堕入财富的陷阱是他恪守的人生信条,也许只有这样,他才能让自己的双眼可以准确的从平凡人群里发现并捕捉到闪光因子,否则在通往地狱的时尚T台的一端,谁都有可能疯狂的冲过去。你瞧,Annie Leibovitz 就是一个很好的例子,难道不是么。

让大师尊称见鬼去吧,让骑士勋章见鬼去吧,一个人心甘情愿、认认真真坚持几十年做一件事情绝非为了这些常常迟到的荣誉,倒是这部纪录片将会让更多人认识 Bill Cunningham,他让我们感觉到在弥漫着功利与腐臭味道的时尚空气里还有一丝凉爽的风。我们完全相信,与我们持有同样感受的人都希望这缕微风能永远飘荡在纽约第五大道上。
 

Bill_CunninghamThe problem is I’m not a good photographer. To be perfectly honest, I’m too shy. Not aggressive enough. Well, I’m not aggressive at all. I just loved to see wonderfully dressed women, and I still do. That’s all there is to it.

 

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摄影师:James Mollison – Where Children Sleep

World Press Photo 2011

广告时间:Fujifilm FinePix X100 – 浪攝流

摄影师 :严明

摄影师: Christy Lee Rogers

柳迪与。。。

像作画般拍摄:Andrew B. Myers

摄影师:Irina Werning: – 回到未来

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