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首页 » 人文地理 » 城市穿行:北京(下)/ CityWalk:Beijing (part 2)

城市穿行:北京(下)/ CityWalk:Beijing (part 2)

八月 11, 2010

北京是一座有三千余年历史的文化名城,历史上共有五个朝代曾在此定都,北京荟萃了自元明清以来的中华文化,拥有诸多名胜古迹和人文景观。时至今日,北京这个承载着悠久历史的城市已经发生了许多微妙的变化。行走在遍布于这位老人身体上那历经岁月沧桑的沟壑之中,你依然还能隐约嗅到他多个世纪前留下的尘土味。

bjwalk_cover

 

下午3:45 南锣鼓巷

1748_2008071010563150hFo南锣鼓巷又名蜈蚣街,只因8条胡同呈非字型分布在768米长的中央巷道两侧。这条看上去不起眼的胡同却住过太多了不起的居民,这里是婉容的娘家,靳云鹏(段祺瑞政府陆军总长、代理国务总理)、齐白石、文煜(清末大学士)、茅盾、蒋介石、荣禄(清代直隶总督、兵部尚书)都曾住过这里。

2008103116322947704如果你感兴趣的话可以去看看这些:茅盾故居(后圆恩寺胡同13号,门票5元)。蒋介石行辕(圆恩寺胡同7号),曾做过南斯拉夫大使馆。

在南锣鼓巷购物是件很有意思的事。从南锣鼓巷5号不知名的小店出发逛逛,这里有文革时的随身装备、“奥巴毛T恤”(奥巴马穿戴着毛泽东的服装和帽子,40元)

石怡集,南锣鼓巷19-1号,专卖带有中国风情的物件摆设。隔壁21号卖一些民族元素的银饰品和丝质唐装。

3:45 P.M. NANLUOGUXIANG (NLGX)

2008061113342240655 To those in the know, Nanluoguxiang is better known as NLGX. Its other moniker is "centipede street," due to the eight hutongs that trail off on either side of the 768-meter-long central lane. The humble hutong has had a number of not-so-humble residents, including Wan Rong, the last Empress of China, who was carried from her home here to her wedding at the Forbidden City in 1922.

There’s history and culture here, if you’re interested: The former residence of Mao Dun at 13 Hou’yuanensi Hutong is now a museum (admission: five yuan or 73 U.S. cents ). Mao Dun was an important early 20th-century Chinese writer who translated "The Constitution of the Communist Party of the Soviet Union" into Chinese. Just next door at No. 7 is the former headquarters of Gen. Chiang Kai-shek; in later years it served as the Yugoslav Embassy.

491736784313948624The shopping in NLGX is unique and fun: Start at the nameless shop at No. 5 of the central NLGX alley and pick up Cultural Revolution paraphernalia or the now infamous "Oba-mao" T-shirt (U.S. President Barack Obama dressed in an army-Mao suit with cap, 40 yuan or about $6). On the opposite side of the street, Cloth & Paper stocks quilts, embroidered pillow covers and cloth tigers for children—traditionally meant to ward off disease (10 NLGX).

Esydragon, at No. 19-1, carries a selection of disposable lighters shaped like mah-jongg pieces. And next door, Feel Shanghai offers an array of silver jewelry in traditional designs as well as raw-silk Mao jackets (21 NLGX).

 

下午5点 GATEAU

在Gateau(南锣鼓巷16号)停一下,来一块蛋糕。波西米亚风格的装饰和圈椅非常享受。23号是个陶艺作坊,有传统的青花瓷器出售。项链60元左右,而青花凳从600到1500元不等。

在过去几个店面有家店出售北京明信片,店主早在开店之前就一直收集各种北京老照片(南锣鼓巷85-1号,明信片5元)。

14222930573191241555 P.M. GATEAU

Stop in at Gateau for a pick-me-up piece of cake and coffee (16 NLGX). The décor is bohemian chic and the armchairs are comfy. When you’re ready, make a stop at The Pottery Workshop, which features creative fusions of traditional Chinese blue-and-white porcelain with modern design (23 NLGX). Necklaces go for 60 yuan (about $8.75) and porcelain stools range from 600 yuan to 1,500 yuan (about $88 to $220).

At No. 33 is the shop of the trendy clothing brand NLGX, which has been instrumental in putting the hutong on the map. Current items include clever "PEK" T-shirts—the Beijing airport code.

A few doors down on the same side of the street is Beijing Postcards, whose owners collected old photographs of Beijing for two years before opening the shop (85-1 NLGX; postcards five yuan or 73 U.S. cents).

 

下午7点 晚餐

在南锣鼓巷从来不缺美食。秦老胡同里有两家地道的印度餐馆Mirch Masala(东北角)和Salud Tapas Bar(东南角)。Saveurs de Corée则是著名的韩国料理餐厅。

XPOhCB0lgX7 P.M. DINNER

There is no scarcity of good eats or cuisines for dinner along NGLX. On either side of the lane where it meets Qinlao Hutong, is Mirch Masala (main courses 30 yuan or $4.40), an Indian restaurant, on the northeast corner, and Salud Tapas Bar on the southeast. Fish Nation (mains 20 yuan or about $3) serves traditional fish and chips; the pizzas are good, too. Next door, Saveurs de Corée (mains 50 yuan or $7.30) is the city’s best Korean restaurant—try the Kimchi Jun, a Korean style pizza topped with a spicy pickled vegetable.

 

晚上9:45 CREPERIE

如果你错过了美食,一定要去E-mai(南锣鼓巷26号),那里的华夫饼和薄煎饼令人陶醉。

9:45 P.M. CREPERIE

If you skipped dessert, pop into E-Mai, a scrumptious purveyor of waffles and crepes at No. 26. Hot Nutella lathered on a waffle just off the griddle is practically sinful.

 

晚上10点 PASS BY BAR

Passby_Bar_-_108_Nanluoguxiang 舔完嘴角的巧克力,你一定不能错过Pass by Bar酒吧(南锣鼓巷108号,饮料20-30元)。作为南锣鼓巷的中坚力量,这个酒吧对本地人和外地游客一样有吸引力。天气温暖的时候,在布满葡萄藤的院子里很容易消磨掉一整个夜晚。

酒吧位于南锣鼓巷最南头,走出巷子就是地安门和平安大街。为了建造地铁,沿路一些老房子已经拆迁,虽然这些拆迁一直饱受争议。无论如何,到目前为止南锣鼓巷至少是安全的,在1990年这条700多年的胡同被列为北京25个历史文物保护单位之一。去年,北京政府又把那里划为“创意街区”。

10 P.M. PASS BY BAR

22B1B9434C39D4C1E61EABD5CE7ACB64_500After you’ve licked the chocolate from your lips, you won’t want to pass by the Pass By Bar (108 NLGX; drinks 20 yuan to 30 yuan, about $3 to $4.40). A stalwart of the NLGX scene, Pass By Bar attracts a diverse crowd of locals and tourists. In warmer months, an evening can be whiled away easily in the vine-covered courtyard.

When you’re ready to pack it in, the bar is conveniently located toward the south end of NLGX, which will let you out at Di’anmen on Ping’an Da Jie. Several courtyards along the way were demolished to build the subway. This controversial move renewed debate in the city over conservation versus modernization. For now, however, NLGX should be safe: In 1990, the 700-year-old hutong was named one of Beijing’s 25 protected cultural and historical areas. Last year, it was declared a Chinese government "creativity zone."

(完|End)

via:wsj.com

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城市穿行:北京(上)/ CityWalk:Beijing (part 1)

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