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首页 » 人文地理 » 城市穿行:北京(下)/ CityWalk:Beijing (part 2)

城市穿行:北京(下)/ CityWalk:Beijing (part 2)

八月 11, 2010




下午3:45 南锣鼓巷






2008061113342240655 To those in the know, Nanluoguxiang is better known as NLGX. Its other moniker is "centipede street," due to the eight hutongs that trail off on either side of the 768-meter-long central lane. The humble hutong has had a number of not-so-humble residents, including Wan Rong, the last Empress of China, who was carried from her home here to her wedding at the Forbidden City in 1922.

There’s history and culture here, if you’re interested: The former residence of Mao Dun at 13 Hou’yuanensi Hutong is now a museum (admission: five yuan or 73 U.S. cents ). Mao Dun was an important early 20th-century Chinese writer who translated "The Constitution of the Communist Party of the Soviet Union" into Chinese. Just next door at No. 7 is the former headquarters of Gen. Chiang Kai-shek; in later years it served as the Yugoslav Embassy.

491736784313948624The shopping in NLGX is unique and fun: Start at the nameless shop at No. 5 of the central NLGX alley and pick up Cultural Revolution paraphernalia or the now infamous "Oba-mao" T-shirt (U.S. President Barack Obama dressed in an army-Mao suit with cap, 40 yuan or about $6). On the opposite side of the street, Cloth & Paper stocks quilts, embroidered pillow covers and cloth tigers for children—traditionally meant to ward off disease (10 NLGX).

Esydragon, at No. 19-1, carries a selection of disposable lighters shaped like mah-jongg pieces. And next door, Feel Shanghai offers an array of silver jewelry in traditional designs as well as raw-silk Mao jackets (21 NLGX).





14222930573191241555 P.M. GATEAU

Stop in at Gateau for a pick-me-up piece of cake and coffee (16 NLGX). The décor is bohemian chic and the armchairs are comfy. When you’re ready, make a stop at The Pottery Workshop, which features creative fusions of traditional Chinese blue-and-white porcelain with modern design (23 NLGX). Necklaces go for 60 yuan (about $8.75) and porcelain stools range from 600 yuan to 1,500 yuan (about $88 to $220).

At No. 33 is the shop of the trendy clothing brand NLGX, which has been instrumental in putting the hutong on the map. Current items include clever "PEK" T-shirts—the Beijing airport code.

A few doors down on the same side of the street is Beijing Postcards, whose owners collected old photographs of Beijing for two years before opening the shop (85-1 NLGX; postcards five yuan or 73 U.S. cents).


下午7点 晚餐

在南锣鼓巷从来不缺美食。秦老胡同里有两家地道的印度餐馆Mirch Masala(东北角)和Salud Tapas Bar(东南角)。Saveurs de Corée则是著名的韩国料理餐厅。


There is no scarcity of good eats or cuisines for dinner along NGLX. On either side of the lane where it meets Qinlao Hutong, is Mirch Masala (main courses 30 yuan or $4.40), an Indian restaurant, on the northeast corner, and Salud Tapas Bar on the southeast. Fish Nation (mains 20 yuan or about $3) serves traditional fish and chips; the pizzas are good, too. Next door, Saveurs de Corée (mains 50 yuan or $7.30) is the city’s best Korean restaurant—try the Kimchi Jun, a Korean style pizza topped with a spicy pickled vegetable.





If you skipped dessert, pop into E-Mai, a scrumptious purveyor of waffles and crepes at No. 26. Hot Nutella lathered on a waffle just off the griddle is practically sinful.



Passby_Bar_-_108_Nanluoguxiang 舔完嘴角的巧克力,你一定不能错过Pass by Bar酒吧(南锣鼓巷108号,饮料20-30元)。作为南锣鼓巷的中坚力量,这个酒吧对本地人和外地游客一样有吸引力。天气温暖的时候,在布满葡萄藤的院子里很容易消磨掉一整个夜晚。



22B1B9434C39D4C1E61EABD5CE7ACB64_500After you’ve licked the chocolate from your lips, you won’t want to pass by the Pass By Bar (108 NLGX; drinks 20 yuan to 30 yuan, about $3 to $4.40). A stalwart of the NLGX scene, Pass By Bar attracts a diverse crowd of locals and tourists. In warmer months, an evening can be whiled away easily in the vine-covered courtyard.

When you’re ready to pack it in, the bar is conveniently located toward the south end of NLGX, which will let you out at Di’anmen on Ping’an Da Jie. Several courtyards along the way were demolished to build the subway. This controversial move renewed debate in the city over conservation versus modernization. For now, however, NLGX should be safe: In 1990, the 700-year-old hutong was named one of Beijing’s 25 protected cultural and historical areas. Last year, it was declared a Chinese government "creativity zone."



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