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首页 » 人文地理 » 城市穿行:北京(上)/ CityWalk:Beijing (part 1)

城市穿行:北京(上)/ CityWalk:Beijing (part 1)

八月 10, 2010

北京的胡同曾经是这个城市的主要干道。在明朝的时候(1368-1644),这些胡同都是按照社会阶级划分的,贵族和精英阶层都居住在靠近紫禁城的地方。而现在,许多胡同都已经被拆迁,取而代之的是宽阔的马路和摩天大楼。不过现在这些幸存的胡同被赋予许多时尚的元素,找个周末悠闲地逛一逛胡同绝对是不错的选择。从古楼到雍和宫,古老又年轻,古典又时尚。

Beijing’s hutongs—narrow alleys or side streets—were once a city mainstay. Back in those days, the location of a hutong, formed by the space between the siheyuan (courtyards of homes), was significant: In the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), they were organized by social rank; the highest-ranking elite lived closest to the Forbidden City. Today, many hutongs have been demolished to make way for wide avenues and modern high-rises.

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 10clk 上午十点 雍和宫

2009051722252838 让我们从北京最著名的寺庙雍和宫开始旅程。搭乘地铁2号线或者5号线到雍和宫站下,逛一逛这座著名的喇嘛庙(门票25元),千万别错过那尊18米高的檀香木佛像,那是1750年达赖喇嘛进献给乾隆皇帝的。

10 A.M. YONGHEGONG – Begin your journey at Yonghegong, one of Beijing’s most extraordinary and often-overlooked temples. Take the Beijing subway line 5 or 2 to the Yonghegong station and alight at Exit C. Walk to the Lama Temple at 12 Yonghegong Da Jie (admission: 25 yuan or about US$3.65). Don’t miss the 18-meter-high Buddha made of sandalwood; it was a gift from the Dalai Lama to Emperor Qianlong in 1750.

 

2009110604004176511clk 上午11点 五道营胡同

沿着雍和宫大街走大概100米,就在街对面就是五道营胡同,这里有很多卖服饰的小店和小餐馆。一个名叫nll的小店(五道营胡同61号)专卖手工艺品,像精致的儿童绣花鞋之类。

隔壁是一家服装店,格言是“每个人都是特别的”,专卖北京和上海的设计师设计的服装。(五道营胡同63A)

路过葡萄院儿咖啡店(五道营胡同31号),这里老外出没频繁,来一顿舒舒服服的大餐吧,推荐moussaka(希腊茄合)和chili con carne(墨西哥辣肉酱)。


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11 A.M. WUDAOYING HUTONG

About 100 meters up Yonghegong Da Jie from the temple—on the opposite side of the street—is the entrance to Wudaoying Hutong, which is just beginning to get hip with boutiques and eateries.

The shop Brand nü sells an array of handmade items, including delicately embroidered shoe insoles traditionally sewn by Chinese mothers for their children, from a women’s artisan cooperative in Ningxia (61 Wudaoying Hutong).

 

123clk 中午12:30 箭厂胡同

beijing016_01补充燃料后继续沿着五道营胡同走,直到一个T字型路口左拐进入箭厂胡同。这里最早是国子监学生射箭习武的地方。

箭厂胡同两边多是些水果摊和洗衣店,在这里你能看见老胡同的生活。40号是一家法式熟肉店,买各种肉制品和奶酪。再往前是一家名为箭厂的现代艺术馆。

12:30 P.M. JIANCHANG HUTONG

After refueling, follow Wudaoying Hutong until you hit a T-junction with Jianchang Hutong. Turn left.

Jianchang is lined with fruit stalls and laundry on the line, a true glimpse at old hutong life. Proof that change is coming, however, can be found at number 40, where a brand-new Boucherie Française stocks gourmet charcuterie and cheeses. One door down is the Arrow Factory, a highly acclaimed space that hosts fascinating contemporary-art exhibitions.


115clk 下午1:15 国子监街

128b444729fg214箭厂胡同南面止于国子监街,在左手边就是孔庙(门票20元)。像北京土著一样在孔庙里闲庭漫步,感受一下遥远的圣人气场。国子监,始建于元朝大德十年(公元1306年),是元、明、清三代国家管理教育的最高行政机构和国家设立的最高学府。

在右手边的拐角处是一个叫孔子的咖啡馆(国子监街25号),来一杯地道的Lavazza或者illy吧?

国子监街42号是一家叫Lost & Found的小店,一如它的名字,这里卖一些怀旧的小玩意儿,比如老门牌、搪瓷杯、暖水瓶之类,还有漂亮的剪纸折页册。

1:15 P.M. GUOZIJIAN JIE

mJianchang Hutong intersects Guozijian Jie, named for the Imperial College down the street on your left that is next to the Confucius Temple (admission: 20 yuan or about $3). Linger in the temple’s courtyards as the locals like to do. The Imperial College, founded in 1287, was a prep school for the Imperial Exam—the test was open to anyone and those who passed became government officials.

Immediately on the corner to your right at the intersection is Cafe Confucius (25 Guozijian Jie). Have a strong cup of genuine Lavazza or illy coffee here before or after the temple.

Opposite the cafe is the Inneroom, which sells strangely appealing tchotchkes, such as the vintage picture-story flipbooks that were popular with Chinese children from 1950 until the 1990s, a time when only revolutionary books were allowed to circulate (28 Guozijian Jie).

A few doors over from Inneroom to the left is Lost & Found, which, as the name implies, sells vintage knickknacks, including Beijing street signs, and ceramics and tea cups. It also produces retro items, such as colorful thermoses reminiscent of those once given as awards to model workers (42 Guozijian Jie). Check out the fold-out Beijing-skyline greeting cards that recall the traditional art of Chinese paper cutting.

 

pm1clk 下午3点 鼓楼东大街

国子监西头是安定门内大街。196号是一家极有乐趣的模型店,在这里你能发现坦克、战斗机甚至1958年红旗轿车的模型。

再往前走就到了Lomo摄影店,可以提供一切你需要的Lomo照片(一种个性化照片,有强烈对比度或者鱼眼镜效果),你可以挑选一种照片模板(200-300元)在胡同里留下只属于你的瞬间。

03_163400_dsc04918 沿着安定门内大街往南到一个很大的十字路口,右拐就是鼓楼东大街。沿着这条路可以一直走到钟鼓楼。

鼓楼东大街96-1号是一家服装店,名叫“放肆”。里面的衣服都是由平面设计师设计的,运动衫&T恤,涂鸦+卡通,色彩鲜亮个性鲜明。

Paper酒吧位于鼓楼东大街138号(南锣鼓巷胡同口),如果你喜欢日式乌冬面或者马提尼酒,至少可以在这里坐一坐。然后左拐进入南锣鼓巷胡同,这里是北京最中产阶级的生活。


3 P.M. GULOU DONG DA JIE

124629A1304330-20Q27Hang a left at the decoratively painted Guozijian gate onto Andingmennei Da Jie. At No. 196 you will find a charming hobby shop with models of Chinese tanks, fighter planes and even the iconic "car of China," a Red Flag limousine built in 1958 that was for decades the vehicle of choice for government officials.

Further down you will pass Lomography, which provides for all your Lomo photo needs (a fast-growing, popular form of photography characterized by intense colors and a fish-eye effect); pick up a disposable model (200 yuan to 300 yuan or about $30 to $44) and get snapping in the hutongs.

Walk along Andingmennei Da Jie, and you will come to a big intersection. Take a right on Gulou Dong Da Jie, which runs up to the historic Drum and Bell Towers, originally built in 1272 under Kublai Khan.

Halfway up Gulou Dong Da Jie, you will find The Thing, a so-hip-it-hurts clothing store with designs by Chinese graphic artists (96-1 Gulou Dong Da Jie)—sweatshirts and T-shirts in gray, black and hot pink with cartoonish drawings and slogans in indecipherable Chinese.

On the same side of the street, just past the north entrance to Nanluoguxiang Hutong, is Paper (138 Gulou Dong Da Jie). Stop at this minimalist haven if you fancy Japanese udon noodles or want to try one of its famous Martinis. Otherwise turn left onto Nanluoguxian Hutong, where Beijing gentrification is at its best.

(未完|To be continued)

via:wsj.com

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城市穿行:北京(下)/ CityWalk:Beijing (part 2)

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